A Vacation

February 20th, 2008

I vacated my house two weekends in a row. I become so cooped up through winter and believe me, gray and drippy and cold are not tempting me out, that I start to get tunnel vision. So I’m getting a new look around lately.

This past weekend I went to Civitacastellana. That’s in northern Lazio, somewhere on the shin of the boot, almost at the foot. To get there I drive south to Terni in southern Umbria, then streak off southwest toward Viterbo and eventually south toward Rome. Civitacastellana used to be one day from Rome and so it was a stop off point for travelers north. It perches on a plateau with a rather dramatic gorge that runs through it now, but used to separate it for safety’s sake.

I probably wouldn’t even know it if a friend didn’t live there. Similarly, nearby Otricoli, to which I also went and where another friend now lives.

It’s just different. The terrain, the people, what they eat, the way the light looks, the architecture. It’s all just different. I’m jammed into the Apennines that run along the eastern side of Italy. They’re stuck into the western ones. It’s something like the difference between New Hampshire and West Virginia, only not so far apart.

My refrigerator wasn’t working as I left, so I dragged along a sack of things that wouldn’t be any good if it didn’t switch on while I was away. (It did and I was very happy.) Alison and I decided to make supper of that sack for our friend in Otricoli and her visiting art school student daughter. I played with Alison’s very cute cat. I watched satellite television a bit. I slept late.

The sun shone both days. Sunday we drove to see the house near Otricoli and ended up making lunch together. Alison grilled sausages in the fireplace, Lisa grilled bruschetta in the wood stove and I whipped up some vegetables that were lying around. It was very good and lots of fun to cook so effortlessly with friends, which really doesn’t happen here.

I left a bit early because I am not so crazy about driving after real dark descends. It meant driving through sunset, twilight and evening.

When I turned eastward, all the eastern Apennines were rosy with light coming from the sun sinking into the Mediterranean. Mile after mile the mountains, rocky and gray or whitely snowy, lay bathed in pink and looking like an illustration in a book of fairy tales. I was almost reluctant to turn north toward home, but as I did I saw that the western Apennines were deeply violet from the same sunset and for at least half an hour of the northward travel they slid by on my left like a thousand postcards.

All that pleasure and beauty affected the way I thought over the next couple of days. A bit of change is good for me. There is beauty all over this country if you just open your eyes and go out to meet it. It’s probably true where you are, too.

Cavollini di Bruxelles alla Lisa (Brussels Sprouts for Lisa)

1 Kilo (2.2 pounds) Brussels Sprouts, trimmed and washed
3 tablespoons (cucchiai) good extra virgin olive oil
1 big handful of roughly chopped walnuts
salt to taste
about 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar

Heat a large pot of salted water and when it is vigorously boiling, toss in the brussels sprouts and cook briefly to set the color. They should still be crunchy. Drain them.

Heat the oil in a wide frying pan and toast/fry the walnut pieces for a few minutes, then add the drained brussels sprouts and sauté, stirring/tossing to dry them a bit. Some of the outer leaves may brown and that’s OK. Taste for salt and correct it. When ready to serve, add the balsamic vinegar and stir to coat the sprouts and nuts with a glaze then scrape all into a serving dish. Pretty good!

Entry Filed under: Food, Italy, Beauty, vegetarian, Italian food, recipes, contorno, vegetables, easy

6 Comments Add your own

  • 1. Snowpea  |  February 21st, 2008 at 2:25 am

    I look forward to hearing more of that trip. The sunset sounds magical — I wish I could have seen it! Trips like that are perfect for chasing away the blahs. Ça change l’esprit de place, as we say (”it puts the mind in another place”). Peter was angry about something at work last week and since we’re on vacation this week, I’m dragging him out snowshoeing as often as possible. He comes back from each outing happily tired, with his eyes full of snow, pine woods and sky. He will return to work a more relaxed and even fitter man LOL

    And I’ll have to get walnuts next time I purchase Brussels Sprouts.

  • 2. admin  |  February 21st, 2008 at 10:12 am

    LOL I am in complete agreement, and part of the madness of winter is that I forget what I know.

    The tragedy of traveling alone is you can’t drive and take photos as well. Many times there is no pull-off area, either. I say Switzerland is “the land of 10,000 photo opportunities and not one place to park to shoot them.”

    The walnuts were what Lisa had. I asked for pine nuts, but walnuts should be cheaper almost anywhere.

  • 3. Alison  |  February 21st, 2008 at 7:25 pm

    The sprouts were yummy. Isn\\\’t it fun to pitch in? I\\\’m so tired of cooking alone and as a result tend to stick to the same dishes all the time. Thanks for sharing the weekend with us!

  • 4. bleeding espresso  |  February 28th, 2008 at 2:38 pm

    Ah what a perfectly lovely vacation! Must be something in the (winter) air….

  • 5. Tina Anderson  |  March 8th, 2008 at 12:23 am

    Everyone needs a vacation like that sometimes. It is not healthy to get stuck in a rut and never be able to truly relax and enjoy yourself.

  • 6. admin  |  March 10th, 2008 at 10:55 am

    Thanks, Tina. I will take that as permission to take another shortly. I am going back to Puglia to conquer some more Pugliese dishes. I wanted ti make it Sardinia, but a change in the family prevents that for now.

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