Begin as You Mean to Go On

Today, to absolutely no one’s surprise, is the first day of 2012. I said last night that I would do as much as I can of what I want to do through this year, and once this is written, I will have done that.

I’ve had some disastrous physical setbacks this year starting in late summer. Were they enough to keep me from blogging? No, but somehow not talking about it would be like ignoring the elephant in the room and talking about it seemed really out of place on a friendly expat and cooking blog. But when I see something special or hear something interesting I always think of this place and I want to tell it here, so I’ve decided to plug Think On It back in if only for my own good.

This is my first sight when I top the hill.

So about that elephant eating hay in that corner over there. He represents four herniated disks in my lower back that have put a stop to my hour and a half rambles and climbs every morning. Just when I was getting used to the idea that a slow and exercise-filled period of physiotherapy was going to have to happen before I could be back on those hills, spinal arthritis or a near cousin jumped on my shoulders. Some time later generalized tendinitis and muscle sheath inflammation made activities a crap shoot.

It's full afternoon, but the sun never reaches parts of this basin.

This past week I have been getting up feeling better. Really better, not just less painful, but capable of doing things at least for a while. Nothing will cheer you up more effectively than being able to think up fun stuff knowing you can probably do it. I sort of want to say “Whoopie!” a lot.

The surface is icy and blurred.

Today I have eaten healthy foods in small portions and haven’t touched seasonal treats. That was number one.

I have started sorting out what really doesn’t need to live in my house and out it will go. Number two.

Ice and spoor.

And my reward is number three. I went for a walk in my hills. I went to see the lake and to see who drinks there in winter. I went to see the goats along my path and I discovered two kids no bigger than an adult cat. Unfortunately, I had used up my batteries and didn’t capture them, but I will another day this week, because I mean to start again no matter what it costs me. The price for not doing what you love is just too high.

Happy new year. Love, Judith

Thrashing about

Someone has hacked the site.  Technicians are working on it right now, so I hope it will be ready for new articles soon.

I hope you didn’t receive any mass mailings of spam from me, but if you did, be assured I didn’t send them and we are working at being sure there will be no more.

A Garden in July

Buddleia

Buddleia for the butterflies

Rosa rosa

Just what a rose should be

rosa coral

An exciting color, similar to Cary Grant rose in the USA.

white geranium

What would we in Italy do without geraniums?

Impatient shrub rose like inside best

This shrub rose decided to live in the gazebo.

stunner lily

Knocks your eye out the first time you see her!

A gentle lemon colored lily.

fiery orange lily

For a little heat that isn’t red in the summer garden,

streaky lily

Just beautiful, she is.

cover girl lily

Is ahe something, or what?

diploid lily

Ruffles and champagne… nice.

Lively geranium

This gal brings cheer to the party.

rosy shrub rose

Pink flowers everywhere, so shall it be.

definition of pale

A bin full of these? Yes!

pale pink pelargonium

This is just one of them.

rosa strumpet

There’s a strumpet in every family, I guess.

luna di miele rose

Honeymoon in Italian.

rosa splendida

This lady never stops giving, never stops pleasing.

friends at lunch

Lunch among the flowers. Some deer came, too.

Asparagus and Scallion Packet (Borsa degli asparagi e cipollotti)

This is the last one, folks. If you can’t make picnics with at least two of these tarts, you are doomed to eat inside all summer.


: Asparagus and Scallion Packets

: Life should always taste this good.

  1. 4 sheets of filo dough
  2. extra virgin olive oil
  3. 8-10 stalks of asparagus blanched in boiling salted water for about 2 minutes
  4. 3-4 scallions (green or spring onions) cleaned and split lengthwise
  5. 2 ounces grated Parmigiano Reggiano
  6. 2-3 tablespoons pesto Genovese
  7. 2 slices American cheese (sotillette)
  8. Scarce sprinkling of crushed chili pepper

  1. You can prepare the vegetables as far in advance as suits you, but they should be at room temperature when you assemble and bake the tart.
  2. Lay out 2 sheets of filo and drizzle some of the oil on them. Spread it around with a pastry brush or your hands. Add two more sheets and do the same thing with the oil again.
  3. Lay the asparagus on the filo about 6″ (15cm) from one end and leaving about 2″ (5 cm) clear on each side. Alternate the stalks so that all the tips aren’t at one end. Add the scallions.
  4. Scatter the grated cheese evenly, then dot with pesto, then add torn strips of the cheese slices and last sprinkle sparingly with the bits of chili pepper. (Italian ones are very hot, hotter than most, so adjust to suit what you have and what you like.)
  5. Fold the 6″ piece over the vegetable mixture, then fold up and in the sides you left free. Proceed to fold over and over the resulting packet until completely closed.
  6. Slide into a 400°F (200°C) oven for 10 minutes, then reduce the heat to 350°F (165°C) for another 10 minutes or until it is golden brown and crispy.
  7. Serve hot, cold or at room temperature.

Use other vegetables when asparagus isn’t in season, just be sure to precook them enough so that they will be done when the tart is cooked.

Diet type: Vegetarian

Meal type: supper

Culinary tradition: Italian

I have filed these as supper recipes because they were invented for such an occasion, but I would serve these as an elaborate antipasto, as lunch or dinner and certainly for brunch.

Asparagus and scallion open tart (Torta salata degli asparagi e cipollotti)

Here is another of the tarts from Friday night’s supper. It seemed almost too pretty to cut, but we did. I ate the leftover bits cold the next day and they were still good.


: Asparagus and scallion tart

: Elegant and easy, a great way to get your vegetables

  1. 1 sheet of puff pastry, thawed, fresh or homemade
  2. 3-4 scallions (green or spring onions) cleaned and halved lengthwise
  3. 6-8 pieces of asparagus, blanched for 2 minutes in boiling salted water
  4. 1 cup (250 ml) mascarpone
  5. 1/2 teaspoon or less salt
  6. 2 ounces (60 g) grated Parmigiano Reggiano
  7. 1 egg
  8. 2 shakes of Tabasco
  9. paprika

  1. If your pastry is round, you will need to also cut the vegetables in half crosswise as well. It probably looks more elegant made in a long rectangle and with them all left whole.
  2. Line a shallow tart pan with the puff pastry (pasta sfoglia) and prick the bottom of the crust all over with a fork. Arrange the asparagus and the scallions on the pastry.
  3. In a bowl mix the mascarpone, the Parmigiano, the egg, Tabasco and salt together quite thoroughly with a fork or a whisk.
  4. Place dollops of that mixture all over the tart and then spread them with a spatula until it looks even. Sprinkle all over with paprika.
  5. Place in a 400°F (200°C) oven for 20 minutes or until a table knife inserted near the center comes out clean. Serve hot, cold or at room temperature.

Lots of other vegetable combinations will work as long as they are thin enough to cook in the time the tart cooks. Even greens and blanched green beans would work.

Preparation time: 15 minute(s)

Cooking time: 20 minute(s)

Diet type: Vegetarian

Number of servings (yield): 6

Meal type: supper

Culinary tradition: Italian

4 :  ★★★★☆ 1 review(s)

How about a nice piece of pie?

Pie for supper

It’s time for another video.  This one describes five savory pies that I made yesterday for a supper for the neighbors.  I will add the recipes one by one over the next day or two.  I think I’ll probably get better at videos as time goes on.  One can certainly hope, anyway.

These torte salate (tohr-tay sah-LAH-tay) were eaten as one dish meals with a salad because it was supper time in Umbria.  They also can be antipasto or first course as well as swell picnic foods.  All but one are vegetarian.

All of these can be made with purchased crusts, making them quick and practical for a cook who works, but all can be made from scratch if you want to save money.  I always make the bread crusts from my Sloppy Dough Revolution recipe, then knead more flour into it before rolling out so that it won’t be too wet to form.

All of these except for the Pepper and Salame torta were served at room (or garden) temperature, so they’re perfect for carrying along to a get together or for the concert in the park.  Click on the link for the recipe.  You won’t be sorry!

: Zucchini and Scallion Tart

: Easy and delicious, a great summer meal

  1. 4 sheets filo dough
  2. extra virgin olive oil
  3. 2 small zucchini, cleaned and thinly sliced lengthwise
  4. pinch of salt
  5. 2-3 scallions, cleaned and cut in two lengthwise
  6. 1 ounce (30g) grated Pecorino or Parmigiano cheese
  7. 2 slices American cheese (Sotillette)
  8. 1/2 teaspoon mixed dried herbs
  9. sprinkling of hot paprika or cayenne pepper
  1. Prepare the zucchini 30 to 60 minutes ahead of time, and lightly salt, leaving it to weep for a while. You could also prepare all the vegetables a day ahead and leave them in the fridge, but take them out to come to room temperature before baking if you do.
  2. Take 2 sheets of filo and drizzle some olive oil on then. Use a pastry brush or your hands to spread the oil around a bit. Add two more sheets and do the same thing.
  3. Lay the zucchini ribbons and the scallion halves on the filo, about 6 inches (15 cm) from one of the shorter edges and keeping about 2 inches (5 cm) of both sides free.
  4. Sprinkle with the herbs, the grated cheese and the hot paprika, then tear the cheese slices into strips and lay them over the vegetables. This cheese will melt and combine with the vegetable juices and seasonings to make a creamy sauce when cooked.
  5. Pull the free 6 inches over the vegetables, then fold the edges up for their full length. Carefully roll the packet to completely close it up.
  6. Using a big spatula and your hand, transfer the packet onto a lined baking sheet. Slide into a 400°F (200°C) oven and bake about 10 minutes, or until it starts to color, then reduce the heat to 350°F (165°C) and continue to cook another 10 minutes, or until golden brown like the ones in the video.

Preparation time: 15 minute(s)

Cooking time: 20 minute(s)

Number of servings (yield): 4

: Creamy Zucchini Tart with Mascarpone and Basil

: A richer picnic tart with more zucchini

  1. 4 sheets filo dough
  2. extra virgin olive oil
  3. 2 zucchini cleaned and sliced lengthwise
  4. good 2 finger pinch of salt
  5. 2-3 scallions, cleaned and split lengthwise
  6. about 1/2 cup (125 ml) mascarpone
  7. 2 ounces grated Parmigiano
  8. dash Tabasco
  9. 1/2 teaspoon paprika
  10. 6-8 fresh basil leaves
  1. Prepare the vegetables and salt the zucchini at least 30 minutes ahead of time. A two finger pinch is the amount of salt you easily pick up with two fingers and a thumb.
  2. Lay out two sheets of filo dough and drizzle the oil over the top one. Use a pastry brush or your fingers to spread the oil around.
  3. Lay the zucchini and scallions on that, leaving about 6″ or 15 cm free at one end and 2″ or 5 cm at each side.
  4. Mix the mascarpone, the Tabasco and the Parmigiano together in a small bowl. Add it to the vegetables in dollops from a spoon. Sprinkle it all generously with paprika.
  5. Fold the 6″ piece of free filo over the vegetables, then fold the sides up, then continue to fold the packet until it is completely closed.
  6. Lay the second 2 sheets of filo out, and add the oil exactly as before. Distribute the basil leaves here and there. Lay the packet you made 6″ (15 cm) from one edge and proceed to roll or fold exactly as before. The basil leaves show now, but they won’t when cooked, which is too bad, but they do flavor this tart very nicely.
  7. Sprinkle the packet with paprika and slide it into a 400°F (200°C) oven and cook for 10 minutes, then lower the temperature to 350°F (165°C) and cook another 10 minutes or until golden and crunchy. Serve hot, cold or room temperature. Pesto Genovese makes a nice sauce with this tart.

Preparation time: 15 minute(s)

Cooking time: 20 minute(s)

Number of servings (yield): 4

21 tomato salute

The essence of tomato

21 Tomato Salute

This is not tomato this or tomato that, it is tomato, and it feels right now like it may be the best thing I have eaten all year. It came into my mind when I saw the pile of San Marzano tomatoes in a bowl but I didn’t want to eat pasta. Summer is ending. The tomatoes are plentiful but soon will be no more. What’s to eat right now should be tomatoes.

What this really is is stewed tomatoes, but the canned version has frightened so many children over so many decades that I refuse to use the name. Freshly cooked tomatoes do not resemble those guilty tins at all. What I cooked and ate yesterday was sweet in the way only a tomato knows how to be, salty to bring out the tomatoey sweetness and had an underlying umami flavor provided by the two other vegetables. I was wowed by the first taste and not finished when the bowl was empty. I ate more, then more and finally it was all gone. My vegetable side dish had become lunch.

21 Tomato Salute

1 pound fresh, ripe tomatoes
2 tablespoons chopped onion
2 tablespoons chopped bell pepper
a couple of sprigs each of herb leaves only (I used basil, thyme and parsley)
1 tablespoon or more butter
salt and pepper

Boil a pot of water for skinning the tomatoes. When it is boiling, toss the tomatoes in and leave them for a minute or so. Don’t let them stay too long, because they will cook too much and too much flesh will come off with the skin. You can test by pulling one up in a spoon and rubbing it with a finger. As soon as the skin starts to move a bit, it’s ready to peel. Remove the pot from the heat and put it in the sink under running cold water to stop the cooking. Peel the tomatoes with a paring knife. It should be very easy. If there appears to be a lot of core at the stem end, remove some of it with the knife tip.

In a medium pot, heat the butter and cook the onion and pepper in it until it is softened but not browned. Add the tomatoes and about a level teaspoon of salt (be conservative) or even better the same amount of the perfumed salt we made a couple of weeks ago. Put the herb leaves on top and then cover the pot. Reduce the heat to simmer and simmer about ten minutes and check to see if the tomatoes are cooked. Moderately sized tomatoes probably will be done. If not, continue to cook them until they are just done. Check for salt. Serve in small bowls with some freshly ground pepper.

The only way this can taste better is if eaten with buttered toast.

Some Sober Talk

Maybe you’ve read the news reports and wondered what, if anything, an outbreak of e. coli in Germany means to you.  Maybe you’ve read them and you know what it potentially means.  Maybe you haven’t seen the reports.

The Telegraph has a report that seems to make sense, neither whipping one to a frightened fury nor glossing over it as not applying to the rest of us at all.  The truth is these days what happens in a far off place often has implications for the rest of us.  The unfortunate thing in this case is that early on it was reported to be a problem with cucumbers.  Now they realize they don’t know where this superbug came from.  That’s a problem because a lot of people will just not eat cucumbers and think they’re safe.  They are not.

So why talk about it here?  Because one of the things you learn and learn and learn again in culinary school classes is food safety.  Everybody knows you should was your hands before cooking, but do they realize they should wash in a particular way?  Do they realize when hands should be rewashed during cooking?  Do they know when washing might not be enough?  Do they know what things may be used to wash fruits and vegetables and render them safe?

Do it right, every time.

Here are my suggestions:

  • Wash hands with soap and water before cooking anything.  Wash thoroughly for at least half a minute and rinse well.  I keep a nailbrush next to each faucet, too.
    • Re-wash hands every time you touch something outside of the kitchen equipment and food.  Telephone call?  You just picked up whatever was on that phone, and so far we have found no way to enforce a law that one must wash hands before using the phone.  Likewise answering the door, taking a child to the bathroom, or wiping his nose, or even just tying his shoes… motherhood or nannyhood are charming but dirty.
      • Think about buying disposable vinyl or latex gloves that are not powdered.  When moving from possibly infected foods to foods that won’t be cooked, it’s much safer to strip off a pair of gloves and toss germs out with them.  I wear them when handling raw meats.
        • Peel fruits and vegetables, even if you usually don’t.  For berries etc., seek out a sanitizing wash you can safely use.  Don’t just use bleach water, because for one thing it will stink and make the product disgusting and besides you shouldn’t eat bleach.  If you need a fruit peel, like grated rind, then carefully scrub with soap and water, rinse and then dry before grating.  Believe me, this will make a difference to me because i usually leave a bit of cucumber skin, almost never skin tomatoes and treat berries like little pearls with no more than a gentle flush of cool water to remove sand.  Those days are over at least for a while.

          Let’s hope they get on top of this and figure out why this super-potent germ has developed and how to handle it.  It’s a bacteria that lives safely within each one of us, but suddenly a mutant refuses to be peaceful and is killing people.  The only way to defend yourself is to make sure you don’t come into contact with it except in ways that you can wash off.

          Ligurian Tomato Salad

          I’m not sure if I ever published this essential mainstay of my summer life. We are preparing it in class today, so I reckoned if it isn’t here it ought to jump onto the page right now.


          : Ligurian tomato salad

          : Don’t add a thing, because this is summer perfect

          1. Ripe tomatoes
          2. fresh garlic (maybe one clove for every 4 tomatoes)
          3. fresh basil, cleaned and sliced very thin
          4. salt
          5. extra virgin oilive oil

          1. Wash tomatoes and cut into chunks, cutting away the cores. Peel and mince the garlic then scatter it over the tomatoes. Sprinkle a biggish pinch of salt over all, then the basil slivers. Pour the oil over this and gently toss a bit with two forks.
          2. Place a clean dish towel over the bowl and leave it at room temperature for several hours. You make this in the morning to eat later that day. Eat it as an antipasto, a salad or even a light meal with good bread and possibly some cheese.

          Preparation time: 10 minute(s)

          5 :  ★★★★★ 1 review(s)

          Coscia di tacchino porchettata: turkey thigh porchetta style

          I was wondering yesterday if I knew anyone who doesn’t like porchetta, that ubiquitous Italian marketplace treat.  I think I don’t.  Hardly anyone is in a position to make it at home, however, because the first ingredient is a whole pig of about 100 pounds and where are you going to cook that?

          Your piece of coscia

          We do, however, cook other things in that style, which is boned , filled with delicious spices and rolled up in skin before roasting.  Duck porchettata is a dish you sometimes see on menus.  I’ve done smaller pork pieces like that, although you have to buy at a butcher to get the all-important skin for crackling.  It wouldn’t be porchetta without crackling.

          This version uses the economical turkey leg and thigh, which happened to be on sale here this week.  Admittedly, I was very hungry while it was cooking, but the perfume of this roast almost drove me crazy.  I can’t think when I have ever cooked anything that smelled so good.  I ended up eating cold asparagus in vinaigrette to hold out until it was done.  And then, oh my goodness!  Delicious almost seems like not enough of a word and I search for another one and can’t find it.  This is good food, special food and worthy of any company.  The slice you see is a bit thick because the roast is still blazing hot and dripping with juices, but as it cooled it became possible to cut thinner and more elegant pieces.

          If you are an experienced cook you can skip a lot of the directions and photos, but I think anyone could make this if they pay close attention to it all. Read the rest of this entry »

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